I don't intend this FAQ to supplant any other E-10 FAQ you see out there, but to pull together information from
all of them and maybe add a few things others don't have.
- How do I check for bad pixels?
The generally accepted test is to do "lens cap shots" in TIFF mode using various shutter speeds through out your
commonly used range and below. You can visually check these shots afterward, or use a pixel-scanning utility
like this one.
- How do I find my firmware number?
From an
awesome post in DPReview Olympus SLR forum:
1. Remove all media cards (CF and SM) and leave media compartment door open.
2. Set camera to playback mode (not P mode) and turn power on.
3. Press exposure compensation button (+/- button on the left side of the camera and the quality
preset button (next to the flash mode button). Firmware version and video output format appear on the color LCD.
Note: The version number reported is in the format x.xx, which is equivalent to the last three digits of the firmware number.
Other methods:
You will need to have access to a photo file straight out of the camera you are checking. The easy way is to run
the file through an EXIF reading utility like this one that will list all the
information embedded in digital camera files in an easy-to-read manner.
Another option is to open up the photo file in Wordpad or another text editor, and look for it in the information
at the beginning of the file. Firmware 42-0120 is currently the latest, most common firmware on new E-10s. New
E-10s are equipped with the 42-0130 firmware. Here's the explanation
with pictures.
- What does the "130" firmware do? "133"?
The 42-0130 firmware incorporates a new function to "map out" dead or hot pixels automatically. This is apparently
achieved by taking a "dark frame" and scanning it, then recording the location of problem pixels. These pixels are
interpolated out (not cloned).
42-0133 firmware is now out and does apparently similar things.
- What cameras come with the "130" firmware from the factory?
Apparently, units made July 2001, or later. Serial numbers 1106440 and higher, according to one reported exchange with
Olympus support.
- Do I have a manual focus problem?
I don't know, do you? Check using this technique
or something equivalent. I personally am not so sure most reported manual focus problems are problems with the
camera and not with the user. Try this technique, adapted from my post in a forum:
The manual focus mode, due to the type of focusing screen, may appear to have a "range" of focus notches where it appears to be in focus in the view finder,
especially at wide angles.
I have always assumed that the correct focus is in the MIDDLE of this range. But after some putzing around and experimenting,
I noticed that it is not at the middle of this range, it is at one of the ENDS of that range.
To find out which, focus using the autofocus, lock with manual, then turn the manual ring. You'll find that it immediately goes out of focus in one direction, but stays
in focus a bit before going out of focus again in the other.
Now, when manual focusing, go OOF in the direction you found is closer, then correct in the opposite direction, but shoot AS SOON AS IT GETS CLEAR. Don't try to find the
"middle."
This could be particular to my camera based on viewfinder alignment, but I find that this method allows me to get sharp manual focus at all focal lengths with objects of
varying distances.
If this doesn't help you, then go fish.
- What filter sizes are the E-10 and its accessory lenses?
The E-10 itself takes a 62mm filter. The TCON-14b takes a 86mm filter. The TCON-300s takes a 49mm filter.
The MCON-35 takes a 72mm filter.
- What are the best batteries for the E-10?
Sanyo industrial 1600mAH's are pretty good. People claim substantial increases over other brands
of batteries; in my experience they edge out normal 1600mAH's by a little. Most other brands, from what I've seen,
are about equivalent to each other. Any 1600 mAH or higher battery should be fine for the E-10. Personally I have tested Millennium
and Rayovac brand and find them both to be competent batteries.
- What is the best Compact Flash memory for the E-10? (Does Mr. Flash CF work with the E-10?)
Apparently, all CFs work about the same in the E-10 in terms of speed. The E-10 writing speed is slow enough to
offset any differences.
Mr. Flash memory works fine in my E-10, and several others have confirmed.
- Is the AF illuminator (red beam) on the FL-40 supposed to go on when mounted on the E-10?
No. Works on the C-2500L, though.
- Do IBM Microdrives work in the E-10?
I have no personal experience, but most reports seem to be that the 340MB Microdrive models work fine in the E-10.
Several have reported occasional problems with the 1 gig model. Good batteries seem to help your chances for
success with MDs. Some people have used the 1 gig by shooting to the SM card and then copying off to the MD for storage.
- Is 1/640 sec max. shutter speed fast enough?
Yes and no. It is fast enough to freeze most human movements, and most animals as well. It can almost freeze
a helicopter's blades in motion. The limitations are seen if the object is moving faster than that, or if you want
to shoot with a wide aperture in very bright daylight. The latter can be worked around by using Neutral Density filters
to cut down the amount of light entering the lens and allow a wide aperture.
- My E-series seems slow to start up or write (compared to test reports).
Try removing the SM card and using only the CF card (or vice versa). Some have found that this improves startup or write times.
- What does the inside of the E-10 look like?
Like this.
- Can you attach the TCON-14B over a protective filter without vignetting? Can you attach the TCON-300S over a protective
filter?
The 14B works fine at full zoom with no vignetting when used over a protective (UV/sky) filter. The usable zoom range may be reduced
somewhat, though. The 300S cannot be used with any filters in place on the E-10 lens.
- Can you use a B-300?
Yes, although there may be vignetting. Reportedly, with a TCON-300S and a B-300 there is no vignetting.
- Which is better, B-300 or TCON-14B?
The answer can be found here.
- Can you use close-up filters?
Yes, even stacked on top of the MCON macro converter.
Ask Jaja.
- Is it possible to attach the E-10 to a telescope?
This person has figured out how --
click on the "Astronomia" link on the left -- but no one has been able to squeeze the information out of him.
An alert reader sends this link to a device designed to hook digicams to
telescopes. It is unclear whether this particular model would work with the E-10, however the astronomy link above does seem to
show the use of a similar device.
- Are there waterproof housings usable with the E-10?
Yes, a cheap bag-type version is sold at EWA marine
and a more robust (and expensive) version, is sold at Ikelite.
The mother of all housings, and the only custom one on the market for the E-10 currently is the
Light & Motion Titan.
- Is there a ring flash for the E-10?
Try SR Electronics' Rf-50 Digi-Slave ring flash. It is a slave-type flash that is triggered off the second flash
of the onboard flash. Review here.
- What are my external battery options?
Have a look at the Maha Powerbank
Unity Digital power pack,
or a Digipower pack.
Or, you can make your own. Try this or
this.
- Can I use non-Olympus branded wide angle lenses?
My standard answer to this is "no one has yet found any non-Olympus add-on Wide Angle lens that performs fully
satisfactorily." Consensus seems to be that just about all of them vignette and many have serious image quality issues.
Here are some comparison pages:
Looks like these lenses may have problems with vignetting, edge sharpness and barrel distortion. That, and they don't end up
providing much more view than the WCON, even though they are called "0.5x".
- Will the E-10 do dentistry/intraoral photography?
The short answer is yes, see this page on David Weikel's site for more
details.
- Does the E-10's split prism design cause a "loss of light"? (Essentially the same question:
Why is the E-10 rated as 80, 160, 320 ISO?)
Yes, the E-10s split prism diverts approximately 50% of the light away from the CCD, hence the ratings. The CCD is calibrated
for normal 100, 200, 400 ISOs in non-prism cameras, and the original E-series prototype had ISO ratings of 50, 100, and 200.
Olympus later boosted these ratings to 80, 160, and 320. Some theorize that this sensitivity "bump" raised the level of noise
in E-series images.
Does this make the viewfinder dark?
No. Even in low lighting. Believe it or not, it's actually as bright if not a tad bit brighter than my standard-mirror film SLR. How does that work?
I don't know!
- Links to other E-10 pages
